Close grain and natural character in Australian hardwood boards
Owner’s Guide

Understanding Natural Timber & Wood.

Knots, live edges, grain movement, tannin bleed and seasoning checks. What natural timber does, why it does it, and what to expect from your garden furniture over the years.

Preserving your investment

Minimal care, deliberate results.

Owning Australian hardwood furniture is like owning a fine timepiece. It requires minimal but deliberate care to age gracefully. Because we use premium graded materials, the structural integrity is in our hands. The aesthetic finish is in yours. New to the timbers we use? Browse the current range or talk to our team.

What to expect over time

All our garden furniture is built to last for decades, but how any natural hardwood weathers depends on your climate, exposure and the finish you choose. We will always tell you honestly what to expect from your chosen timber and how to care for it, and we stand behind the craftsmanship of every joint we make.

Natural timber index
Tannin Bleed

Managing tannin bleed.

Timeframe: First 6 to 12 weeks

Most high-end Australian natives, particularly Spotted Gum, Redgum and Ironbark, are rich in natural tannins, the organic compounds that give the timber its durability and deep colour.

The Process

When new timber is exposed to rain or heavy dew, tannins may bleed or leach out, potentially staining porous surfaces like light coloured stone, pavers or concrete.

The Solution

Hose the furniture down on a lawn or non-porous surface during the first few heavy rains to flush the excess tannins. Most surface staining lifts over time with a standard deck cleaner or a mild oxalic acid solution.

Tannin leaching from freshly milled Australian hardwood
Silvering vs Re-oil

Silvering off, or re-oiling.

All timber eventually transitions to a silver-grey patina due to UV exposure. You have two choices for the look of your furniture.

The weathered heritage look.
Option A

The weathered heritage look.

Allow the timber to silver off naturally. You retain the strength of the Class 1 Durability with a low-maintenance, rustic grey finish that softens into the landscape.

Zero ongoing maintenance

The rich exposed grain look.
Option B

The rich exposed grain look.

Maintain the vibrant reds and browns of Ironbark, Spotted Gum, Red Gum and Blackbutt with a UV-stabilised timber oil or tint every 6 to 12 months, depending on sun exposure.

Re-oil every 6 to 12 months

Seasoning Checks

Understanding seasoning checks.

In our Fresh Ironbark and Recycled Sleeper ranges you may notice small cracks appearing on the surface or ends of the wood as it acclimates to your home’s micro-climate. These are called checks, and they prove the authenticity and density of the hardwood.

Natural seasoning checks in Australian ironbark
Technical note

Checks occur because outer layers dry slightly faster than the core.

Structural impact

None. The Structural F-Rating of the timber is unaffected.

Care matrix by timber
Timber TypeLevelRecommended Care
Seasoned Hardwoods (Blackbutt / Spotted Gum)ModerateWipe down with a damp cloth. Re-oil annually to maintain colour.
Fresh Sleepers (Ironbark)LowAllow to season naturally. Lightly sand any rough checks if desired.
Recycled SleepersVery LowMinimal care required. Enjoy the pre-weathered silver patina.
Treated PineModerateCan be painted, stained or left to grey. Re-stain every 2 years for best look.

Avoid standing water.

Class 1 and 2 hardwoods do not enjoy puddles. Ensure table feet are not submerged for long periods.

Use breathable covers.

Plastic covers trap moisture and heat, leading to mold or accelerated cupping. Choose breathable canvas.

The water bead test.

Drop water on the surface. If it beads, your coating is still working. If it soaks in, it is time to re-oil.

Natural character

The marks a tree leaves behind.

A tight, sound knot in an Australian hardwood board
Knots

Character, not a flaw.

Every knot marks the point where a branch once grew from the trunk. Rather than machining or filling them out, we leave sound, tight knots as they are - they're part of the tree's own history and give each board a distinct, one-of-a-kind face. A knot doesn't compromise the structural grade of our boards; only loose or unsound knots are excluded during grading.

The irregular natural contour of a live edge hardwood board
Live Edges

The natural silhouette of the tree.

A live edge is the outermost edge of a board, taken from the sapwood section of the trunk closest to the bark. We remove the bark itself but leave the natural, irregular contour of the timber intact rather than squaring it off. The result is a silhouette entirely unique to that particular tree - no two live edge boards are ever the same.

Grain and colour variation across an Australian hardwood board
Natural Grain Exposure

Colour that moves across the board.

Natural timber rarely holds one uniform colour from end to end. Heartwood and sapwood, mineral streaks and subtle colour shift within a single board are common in Australian hardwoods, and we choose to let this variation show rather than select only for uniformity. It's one of the most complimented details in our finished furniture - natural inconsistency that can't be replicated in a manufactured material.

Technical Glossary

The words we use, in plain language.

A short reference for the terms that come up when we talk about your timber furniture, from the quote through to the day it arrives in your garden.

Seasoning Checks
Small, shallow cracks that appear as fresh timber dries. A prized aesthetic in heritage furniture that does not affect the strength of our selected timber boards or sleepers.
Tannin Bleed
Natural oils in hardwoods, especially Ironbark and Spotted Gum, that may wash out during the first few rains. We recommend placing new furniture on a non-porous surface initially.
Dressed vs. Rough Sawn
Dressed timber is machined smooth on all sides. Rough sawn retains the original mill marks for a more industrial, rustic texture.
Cut Green / Fresh Cut
Timber used in its unseasoned state, not kiln dried and still carrying natural moisture content. Sometimes susceptible to shrinkage as it dries in place.
Seasoning
The period of time it takes for timber to dry naturally.
Kiln Dried
A controlled heat process used to dry timber before use, making it more dimensionally stable and reducing warping and shrinkage over time.
Shrinkage
The reduction in a board's size as moisture leaves the wood during drying.
Bow
A gentle end-to-end curve along the length of a board's face, where the ends sit higher or lower than the middle. It happens when one face of the timber dries or moves more than the other.
Warping
The general term for any change in a board's flat shape as it dries and settles, including bowing, cupping and twisting. Some movement is a natural part of how solid timber acclimatises to its environment.
Heartwood
The dense, dark inner wood of the trunk.
Sapwood
The lighter, outer band of wood just under the bark, where live edges are taken from.
Live Edge
The natural, irregular outer contour of a board, left intact rather than squared off. See the Live Edges section above.
From the Journal

Timber vs Wood: What the Difference Actually Means.

Ask ten people the difference between timber and wood and you will get ten different answers. In our workshop, the distinction decides how a board is graded, sold and eventually built into your furniture.

Keep reading

Natural material, honestly explained.

Choosing a species is the first step. Learn how each Australian hardwood is graded in the timber selection guide, then keep your garden furniture looking its best with the timber care & maintenance guide.